To engage with the waves you must leave the familiar, the solid ground, the static realm.

The initial engagement with the waves is unpredictable and sometimes turbulent.

You must push through this critical zone where the waves break the hardest to get out to that place where the waves just start breaking.

This zone is ever-changing depending upon undercurrents, the tide, and the size of swells coming from miles away.

Remain aware of this changing nature.

In pushing through the breaking zone, the tendency would be to keep your head above the water so as to breathe.

The trouble with this is that the wave's force is greatest above the surface.

Go instead underneath the wave, to the ocean floor.

This is a calm place, but one cannot remain there long.

The shallows are a blessing and a curse.

They allow you to stand and breathe, but this surface you stand upon is also the one which the wave may smash you against.

Waves come in sets.

There can be recognizable patterns.

Sometimes the third in a set of three can be the best.

This means passing up the first two, which appear to be fine.

Sometimes a wave looks like "The One".

You catch it and ride a short distance, only to have it dissipated by the backwash returning from an earlier wave.

Keep at it, try another.

There is nothing to cling to.

The water is fluid.

Even the bottom varies with an occasional sinkhole or territorial crab.

Walk when you can walk, swim or tread water when you must.

Some days the ocean is calm and flat as a mirror.

These days you cannot ride, cannot engage.

Know that the waves will return at a later time.

Other days the waves will be fierce and choppy.

There is too much energy to ride and often danger in doing so.

Wait for the in between times of not too calm, not too rough.

Pace is important.

You must time your takeoff to synchronize with the wave's speed.

Going too fast or too slow will mean missing the wave.

The initial takeoff is fast.

Remain alert and choose your direction quickly.

Water may fill up your eyes.

Keep blinking.

Steer with your whole body away from the curl but remain close enough to utilize its force. Watch out that you do not run over others.

Wipe-outs will happen and they can be deadly.

Know how to fall, to roll, to hold your breath.

Do not try to out-muscle a wave.

You cannot do it.

Become one with it until its grip upon you weakens, then escape and catch your breath.

Having wiped out, beware that you are in the break zone and more waves will soon follow the one that just pummeled you.

You will need to breathe quick full breaths, going below the surface and rising,over and over until the set has passed.

Know your limits.

Disengage to the shore when you feel too fatigued.

Rest and replenish yourself before returning to the water.

Riding a wave as far as you can, may impress bystanders, but can also mean scratching up your belly on the broken shells of the shore.

Ride only as far as you need to.

Be humble.

Watch for the undertow.

Do not try to resist it.

It is stronger than you.

Instead, remain in it until it takes you further out from shore.

Then it will lose its power and you can swim parallel to the shore and back in.

Between sets, take notice of the sights, the sounds, the smell, the taste of salt, the cool of the water, and the warmth of the sun.

Watch how others ride.

You may learn something new.

Be willing to teach others and watch for those unfamiliar to these waters.

They may need your help.

Retire, at the day's end, to the solid ground.

You cannot sleep in the waves but you can dream about them in your sleep, gaining new insight as you rest.